Re-entry - Back in Bagamoyo

‘Hakuna matata’ is what most people greeted me with upon my arrival back to Baga. ‘Our home is your home, and we welcome you to our family.’

Finally my first blog posting which is a little surprising since I have been here for almost a month on Saturday. Gawd I can’t believe I have been here a month already.

I think I’ve spent quite a bit of time adjusting to living in a new culture, primarily with all Africans. Imagine that – I am in Tanzania - solo, without the comfort of living with and being surrounded by other muzungus everyday, which was how it was while I was living and working with CCS back in February. Although, I have remained friends with a few people from Baga who have been wonderfully supportive, and who have taken me into their lives, homes and families, be it their family or extended family, their friends.

I spent my first week living with a friend of a friend, Charles who was introduced to me by Clementine, aka Mama C, and it is her good friend, and his lovely wife Doreen, that I rented a room from for the first week of my stay here.  Mama C wanted to make sure that I was safe, above and beyond anything and because I stressed to her, about 5 times, that I wanted to stay somewhere SAFE and SECURE since I have all my computer stuff and camera equip etc AND hello for my own safety, as well.  I mentioned staying at a hotel but she insisted I stay with Charles, as she trusted him implicitly and because she didn’t find it necessary to spend the extra money. I felt much better doing this anyway.

I stayed in a “modest” room with just enough to get me by until I found my own house. It came with a bed and mosquito net, tv, which I had them take out, a night stand and little stable and mirror.  I immediately felt at home – well as much as I could feel at home. I don’t particularly care to live with other people in general. I love my own privacy and space A LOT, and I have been living by myself for the past 4 years, yet I found this to be a no-brainer exception, and it was short-term. 

Safe is as safe does. There were bars on all the windows, mind you ALL the houses have some sort of simply designed, ornate steel windows with screens on the windows to keep out the INCREDIBLEY irritating mosquitoes, and the unwanted visitors, and what we like to call THIEVES.  Although there were a few other unwanted visitors that just FEAK me out and I can’t even kill them unless I have a huge towel or big-arse boot – yes, cockroaches. They kill me and I really do despise them. If you could see my face now I have the biggest ‘gross-me-out face that I can make. Thank gawd for my mosquito net.

One night I got up in the dark to go to the bathroom, and something fell on my shoulder and I jumped up and down, swinging my arms at the darkness and silently screaming. I turned on the light and I found a sweet little gecko-like lizard on my floor. I immediately felt horrible thinking I had hurt the little thing because I flung it off of me as though I was flinging off a 5-pound cockroach off of my back.

I do believe I felt a little culture shock. The first two weeks I wasn’t sure if I was coming or going.  I was meeting new people, learning my way around and spending most of my time with local friends who were, showing me the ropes, so to speak. It was somewhat of an emotional breeze at times and other times an emotional windstorm, tearing through my heart and soul. It’s all-good though. That is how we tend to grow and break on through to the MANY other sides, right?

It has been a wonderful experience thus far because I am learning the culture and language rather fast, although not fast enough for me,  since I don’t really have too many muzungu friends,  and because I spend all of my time with my African friends and every day acquaintances.

Besides if I want to learn the culture, you have to live, breath and absorb the culture as best you can. 

Off to Solo Safari

Yeah! Another day I have been anxiously awaiting -My week long safari! I must dash now as my private driver is waiting for me in the lobby. I will post in the next day or so because some of the safari lodges actually have Internet. NICE!

SOOOO excited!!

Busu, busu busu - kisses and hugs

Farewell my Students & Friends at Unjoma (together as one)

I can't believe 3 weeks has come and gone so quickly. I could use one more week to explore a little more and spend time with the new friends I have been making. It took the first 2 weeks to settle in to the culture, I suppose you could call it shock, although it didn't fee like a shock until I started to relax more the 3rd week. And to also adjust to the weather HOT, HOT. My friend Sila wasn't kidding when he said it is going to be so hot and you will need to make sure to wear your sunscreen at all times. He wasn't exaggerating in the least.

I also was saddened a little the day I left my students behind. Although I must admit I felt my work was done there, and I had accomplished the goals I had set forth at the start of my placement. I started to get a little burnt out because it truly does take much of your energy, patience, thought and then some, to not only teach English but to actually teach them why you want each person to know what you are teaching and how it will better them into the future. AND with the little Swahili I know, I became a kick arse pictionery and charades master. ha ha. If you could have seen some of the stuff I acted out for my students....

I feel blessed for being able to touch each of my 8 students, in ways I may not have realized, but in ways that will help shape their lives into their future, and mine as well. Even if one of their favorite saying or expressions was when I taught them how to "zip it" when they would talk or laugh at one of the other students if they couldn't remember what to say during our lessons. The first time I laughed and said to "zip it" and they laughed yet stared at me not having any idea what to say. So then I pointed to the zipper on Swale's pants and them they all laughed for about 5 minutes. One day we were practicing shopping in their store, which we did every day. I was explaining to them how they need to greet their customers with hellos and ask where they are from and how long they are in Tanzania for and to make "jokes", you should have seen me explain that one:) As they were practising I chimed in to correct Stella and Augustino look at me and literally did the ZIP on my and we all could not stop laughing. It was cute. NOw it is a common Heidiism-Swahili slang.

It also could be a little frustrating to teach at times because every day I taught in the open huts, where the wind was definitely welcomed on some days, and not on others because it would blow ALL of my big papers,a nd pens every where. This is where sawre words were introduced, NOT in my lessons, but from hearing me sware at the wind and dirt floors, with no walls to post the big sheets of paper on - URG I was pissed off some days, yet as soon as I got annoyed it left just as fast ;) Resources were extremely limited at Unjoma, and anything I would need to teach I could bring from our supply shelves, but I had to return with them and carry them back and forth every day.

One day, this was before I got smart enough to bring the big clip board for my lessons, I got all MGiver(sp?) and tapped into my ever-sp-resourceful self. I must admit I was quite impressed, as were my students. It was super windy and I had about 6 huge sheets to tape up...heeellloooo tape onto what, and with what tape. There are no walls or many poles to attach anything to. The hut had a thatch roof that hung down on all 4 sides and was supported by 4 poles on each side horizontally and was open in the front and back of the hut, with a long beam on each side. YOu all can imagine this, I'm sure. Since there There was no tape or tacks, and they could only get me one nail that they out pulled from out of an old, broken up board. Hmmm I had 6 sheets to put up and the windy was picking up. One of my students came back with about 3 TINY pieces of tape that I then split into 8 smaller pieces and I taped the top of the paper to the side beams. This didn't solve the problem of the sheets blowing in the wind. I asked them if we could use some rubber from old bike tires that were just laying around, to pull and bind from one pole to the other and back around to sandwich the sheets between the rubber. OMG it was so archaic I couldn't help but grin and then think about the lack of resources they have on a daily basis, yet they get by with the lack of, and know of nothing else. the bottoms of the papers kept blowing in the wind and we couldn't read them SOOO I pulled one last move out of..... :) I asked them to bring me some string...they didn't have any, so I asked Elizabeth to give me some of her yarn that she uses to crochet her hats, and I then had the guys cut them into 3 feet lengths. Yes, it gets better. I made little holes in the end of each of the papers, pulled the yarn through, knotted each of the ends to the paper and then tied rocks to the strings and set them on the ground. GENIUS.

My students all clapped and said Asante sana Teacher Haidi. (Thank you so much) I realized at that moment, through this simple problem/issue, that would have taken no time back home to correct, came the transformation of challenge into quite interesting solution(s). It felt really cool and I beamed with pride at my resourceful self and I stood together with each to be along side with them, living/working as they do, EVERY day.

There was one last item of importance that I needed. I walked out of the hut in search of a "pointer" for my lessons. Perfect, I grabbed an old piece of palm leaf that fell from the nearby coconut tree. I was then ready to rock the day away :)

I have many other stores to share about my teachings and students that I will post another day.

I left my students that day and we all hugged and thanked each other for the true cross cultural exchange and experiences we shared together. It was everything I did or didn't expect and then some. I'm grateful for such a rich, challenging, yet ever-so-rewarding experience.

Asante Sana, Unjoma - Stella, Augustineo, Swale, Thomas, Elizabeth, Wabi, Patrick, Mchanda, and the many othe, that soon became friends, that wandered in, from day to day, to sit and hang out for a few moments and then wander off back to wherever they came from and or to wherever they were going.

Surrounded by Art and Music

I am loving how Bagamoyo has an abundance of artisans from wood carvers and painters, to the drummers that you can hear from down a lonely alley. There are many hidden gems and artists studios that seem to find you. In the old city area of Bagamoyo, the area that was developed during the height of slavery and trading, and then to become the thriving center for the commercial and local fisherman and is now home to many of the local artists and musicians. I was wondering around with a few other friends one day and I heard the beating of drums off in the distance. Of course, I set out right in the direction of the rumbling that was music to my ears. I walked up and started talking to three guys that were playing and asked to take some photos. They happily glowed with the idea of having their pictures taken while drumming. They asked it I could print out photocopies, and i laughed and said I forgot to bring my color printer with me. They laughed and then asked me to email them photos to their studio address.

Just as I came upon their jammin' session I noticed the most amazing, old building that looked as though it had been destroyed by a past bombing/explosion, and was crumbling before my eyes. It really wasn't bombed, yet was rather laying down due to old age. There is no roof just open windows perfect for welcoming the smiling ocean along with its refreshing breeze, that is just down the hill about 300 yards away. Through the windows and doorway, the most vibrant paintings and sculptures re veil themselves to anyone whom is fortunate enough to wander by. It is such a stunning juxtaposition with the texture of the rough, golden-orange hued, mud walls and the vibrant, rich colors of the paintings that literally cover each wall from floor to ceiling. They share this magical space with hand carved copper, stone and wood masks and sculptures and their awesome creators too.

As I was taking some photos one of the local artists, Zachereah, swayed in with his larger-than-life, happy smiling face. He explained to me that this ever-so-raw space was like a co-op for the artists. They paint on the street or in the back under the swaying trees, and also crumbling facade of a building that once stood. I can't wait to post my photos once I return. I find it VERY inspiring. Such a cool, cool space. I want to drop back in and buy a mask to add to my collection.

Last week a few of the other volunteers went to another local artist studio just down the road from where we are staying. It is in an interesting mud hut, with cool open rafters, a thatched roof and dirt floors. Oh by the way, most all of the villager's homes have dirt floors, with the exception of the more established business' and or residences. We can't leave out the roaming chickens that hang out and peck around, so randomly along with the occasional CUTE, CUTE goats that also roam about. Such a trip!!! Sometimes I wonder, 'how and the heck do people find their missing goats?' Maybe they come home like dogs and cats - ha ha. I did notice that some of them are tied up to a tree with by a long rope.

Back to the artists studio. The upstairs loft is where the painters and artists make jewelry and hang out. Downstairs they cook and prepare the wax for batiking and also display their art along the walls. This day they were preparing for us with hot wax and all. We spent a few hours learning how to create a batik from our own hand-drawn sketches and then wax and dye them. Such a fun process. I copied one of the patterns from my book for refererence. The interesting thing is, since I have traveled to Bali and watched the women Batik, I have wanted to translate my own patterns into beautiful, HEIDI batiks. And, here I am :)
Manifestation at it's finest.

I had such a fun day sharing an interesting space, creating alongside with other local artists.

Right ON!

Ciao for now

President Obama's Inauguration

Wooooo hooooo hoooooooo. Go Obama go. It was so fun and exciting to be able to watch the inauguration here in Tanzania!!! I find it interesting at how many Tanzanians from the children on the street, to the local villager etc who know who Obama is and who knew just what was happening on the day he was sworn in. I LOVE it!!! That morning I went to teach my students, about 10 of them, and when we pulled up in the bus I could here some cool hip-hop beats playing in the huts. I climbed out ready to take on my day, and I thought to myself, who is this singing because as I listened to the words I noticed "yes, today is the day, Obama, Obama, yes today he will become the first African American President evah of this grrrrrreat nation. A a a yah, a a a yah. Everyone sing...." I LOL because it was so awesome that an African musician was singing about an American president-to-be. SO damn cool!!! I shouted OBAMA and they all laughed and started shouting too. We started to dance and then I had to put my teacher hat on.

As I walked through the villages the days prior, I noticed many of the stores were proudly displaying women's tongas with the bright and smiling face of Obama. Also, super cool!
What reach, influence and vibrational power!!!

That night all the volunteers and some of our staff went to a restaurant to watch the inauguration. We were all THRILLED for days, anxiously awaiting for this day to arrive. I felt such pride and happiness. It was awesome to be able to celebrate it surrounded by such a colorful mix of Tanzanian's and Americans. A moment I won't ever forget.

One Love

My first weekend Outings

Beach time for sure! And did I say beers too not one but two or three. We took a taxi to a beach resort...I know I know Beach Resort... such Americans, but it is the nicest beach and we all were craving tiny bit of pampering and pool time. I know I was.

We decided to park it right at the pool, for 3ooo shillings a day, which is equivalent to 2.50 or around there. Ahhh it was nice to basque the HOT HOT sun and splash around. After a few hours of sunning my white arse a friend and I went to the beach where a few of my students and now friends were hanging out, some selling their creations while others were just hanging out. I asked them where the surf was...surfers and some laughed with no clue of what I said and one of my favorite students Wabi, understood and explained it to the rest. He then pointed to this little tiny wave and smiled. The tide was super low and waayyyy far out so we kicked off our flip flops and took off towards this interesting rock wall formation, not coral, but big boulder like rock walls. There were sand pols with interesting fish and some long, worm-like snake-like creatures that were bright orange. My friend wigged out but it really didn't phase me.

Once we got to the walls, we climbed around and took in the wondrous views of the Mangrove trees to the right and to the left, towards Dar Eslam the white, sandy beaches stretched for miles. I am stoked to be able to be in the heart of a true, down and dirty village with all its glory and then come to this gorgeous beach and resort to chill for the day.
Gotta LOVE this place.

The resort was quiet and not many people. After spending the day playing around and exploring we headed back down the beach towards home-base. It was awesome to see all of the men and women snaked along the beaches catching fish and scaling them at the same time...prepping for sale. Women in their full tonga attire as gorgeous as ever sitting down scaling fish and tending to their children. The men doing the same, yet NOT tending to their children. That is the women's job...hmmm sound a tad bit familiar.... kidding just kidding. It's the culture: women cok, clean, tend to the children at home and men tend the fields, hard labor and bring home the bacon...well chickens. It is like this in the villages yet in the city, it is more westernized nd women are a little more free to work and go to university.

I learned that you must ask a person to take their picture and most of the time this holds true. I need to ask again why, but I know it is out of respect yet also maybe they feel exploited in a way. Not sure. I learned this because as a few children were playing and not facing me I thought it would be ok to take a photo. Ohhh no, because I heard man yelling from the distance, mind you I'm talking from about 500 feet away, and as I looked up he was shouting 'no photo no photo'. I felt a little threatened and then I felt reprimanded. Lesson learned. I'll have to remember to tell you in a moment about how, in Africa you aren't aloud to take photos of government buildings, police offices either.

Although some people love their photo taken, the less shy, and will strike 'model-like' poses, no exaggeration, and then they get a kick out of seeing themselves on my digi camera. They ask me to email it to them or print it out and give it to them... I laugh.

Ohhh yes let me tell you about my almost getting taken in for questioning at eh new United States Embassy. Ohh yah it's true. We aere on our way back from the city with our driver Kennedy. This was such a Heidi moment. He pointed out the NEW embassy that was built after the Tanzanian-American Embassy bombing. I was psyched to get a photo of the cool sign and building with the guards, YES, guards that my spastic self didn't see standing with their guns fully loaded and on gaurd. I lean out the window and go to take a photo and just at that moment Kennedy quickly said out loud' NO NO you can't take a photo. 'I thought 'oh shit, shit' and immediately realized what I had just done. Such a blond Heidi moment :O No sooner than he said that did the two guards come rsuhing into the street motioning for us to pull over. Oh my gosh I about died. What rished through my mind, at that moment, was the news story hitting stands in the 'American volunteer detained for questioning in case of being a spy. NO joke.

I felt like such an ass and felt badly that I put Kennedy and another volunteer in this predicament. They immediatley asked me to show them my camera. I didn't want to hand it over in fear they would keep it, although I sure as heck did. I explained that I went to take a photo but didn't. I had to go through all of my photos. Mind you, I had some photos from back home of a party at my house and I thought to mysef...oh gawd how embarrasing because I coudn't remember what pictures were on there. Aftyer about 15 minutes of quick, loud and aggressive verbage one of the guards wrote down Kenedy's phone number and we drove off. I apologized up and down and Kennedy smiled and said 'no worries Miss Heidi, no worries.

I asked him what they said and he calmly explained to me that they wanted to bring me in for questioning and see every photo on my camera. Kennedy said NO because I was a volunteer and I didn't actually take the photo. They still insisted and instead of taking me in. THANK G!!! The younger, I thought nicer guard, asked Kennedy for a pay off of 20 dollars, and Kenedy said no because the camera's would see the money exchange and immediatley thnk him as guilty and he could get his business permit taken away. So instead Kennedy gave him his mobile number and said her could call him if he wanted to collect the money.
Holy shiat! Even though Kennedy didn't seem to think it was a big deal I felt horrible and told him that if he called him to 'collect' that I would give him the money. He didn't seem concerned. He explained to me that he had studied all the government rules and regulations and new them quite well. After that I was scared to take a picture of a goat on the side of the road for fear that a guard would come rushing out. Funny, yet not so funny. Another lesson learned...

I'm off for now - it's lunch time and I hear the bell ringing.
xo

Day 7

Habari

I can't believe I have been here for 1 week already. It is going fast. I was really excited for the weekend that is for sure. I started teaching on Tuesday and taught until Friday. I must say it is quite exhausting. Fun, challenging yet at the end of my day of teaching, which is only 3 hours, mind you, I am DONE.

I really am loving staying in Bagamoyo and it is exactly what I was looking for, as far as a third world city/town goes. In every sense of the word, it is 3rd world. It is like what you read and see in National Geographic, being that I grew up reading it. And no, I am not talking about the nudie pictures either- ha ha. As I walk through the many villages within the city I am pleasantly amazed at the rawness of their living. The houses are made of mud and sticks and are sometimes adorned with a beautiful, Arabic style door and or window. The windows are carved out in the shape of, a window, square and sometimes they have a few bars in them, but that is rare. Many times the front porch has an outdoor area for sitting and hanging out or for eating. These areas are made of sticks that are placed about 8 inches apart so you can see everything that goes on inside them. Many times the children are just sitting with their mothers or relatives either eating, playing or the women are cooking or doing wash or just hanging out.

It is such a trip, although I have been to a few places that are similar in environments, like Dominican Republic, it is still mind blowing to be exposed to such a raw, rough, dirty, dusty, poverty stricken environment. What amazes me even more is that the people are HAPPY and smiling. Of course they are because they haven't experienced anything but this lifestyle. It makes me reflect on how simple their lives are and how LITTLE they need to survive and enjoy their lives to the fullest. In the USA and many other countries we are so fortunate and spoiled, really. The word excessive comes to mind a lot. Don't get me wrong, I love my life and am very grateful for everything I have created and am able to have, yet being exposed to such raw simplicity brings me closer to earth, more grounded and I think to myself how much I can do without. Let's not get crazy here though. I know what I can and CANNOT live without. That is an entire other blog story ;)


I am loving learning being immersed withing the culture on such an intimate level. I literally walk out my door and I see women in their beautiful dress, the tonga's, wraps and barefoot carrying their child tied to their backs with another tonga. I am so inspired by the womens' dress. They wear a tongas or scarf around their heads, a lot of the time, with a different colorful patterned tanga wraped around their waist and either have a shirt or wrap, as well. The village women and children wear more of the traditional dress and are barefoot. Almost everyone is barefoot. Many of the younger girls where partial traditional and western. It is interesting to see how the western fashions influence the younger teen boys and girls.

I'm super inspired by the many gorgeous, vibrant patterned tongas that all the women wear and I also notice them hanging from house to house because EVERYONE hand washes all of their clothing and materials. Even me:) I can't wait to go on a mission to buy as many tongas as I possible can. I especially love how the women wear the scarves around their heads. They do this to keep the heat out and for carrying everything from an almost full sparklett's bottle to a basket of fruit and vegetables and at times they even carry a bundle of wood. I will try this one day. My friend actaully saw a woman carrying a half full Sparklett's bottle on her hand as she reched down and swooped up her little boy. All in one movement. Talk about impressive and multi-tasking at it's finest. Could you imagine me doing that...I am the clutsiest person ever. It was funny one day I was at the group of stores teaching my students and I moved and knocked over an entire shelfe of hand carved animals...i started to laugh with pure embarrassment, while they waved their hands expressing to me that it was 'not a problem', and I said 'I am such a clutz.." they didn't get it but now they know.

Everyday I fall in love with the children. Their bright, dazzling smiles as they all come running up to me and hug me or just stand by on the side, if they are more shy, makes me melt. So precious. One day we were dropping off one of the girls at her placement at the orphanage and as soon as they opened the door to the car the little 3 to 5 year old babie dolls climbed into the car, without any hesitation, and just climbed right inot my lap or sat as close as they possibly coud right next to me and reached for my hand... OMG I was in heaven. There is something to say about their curiosity and sweet hearts. I find myself wanting to spread the love to as many as I can.

I have also noticed, as soon as I arrived here, how the women carry themselves and walk around with such pride and dignity with the straightest posture. I find most of the women are truly so lovely in their own way. I find that if you look them in the eye and smile or greet them with respect, they then share that feeling and send you a warm smile. others just look at you and i wonder what they are thinking "what the hell are you looking at me for, or why are you here?"

The men, as in anywhere are more open and friendly - of course they are :) I find the elder villagers are more quietly and just look at you as you pass by. To my surprise some of them look at me then ever so slowly, their lips curl into a bright smile. African men...hmmm did
I already say this... they are more times than not, beautiful - stunningly so. Some men graciously look and turn away and others are a little more aggressive. I can feel right away if my space feels invaded, in or good or bad way. I find with the men, women, girls and children they are so friendly and just want to talk to you and get to know you. The younger ones are less shy and approach you. |Many of the girls and ladies are shy to approach me, yet as soon as I greet them they warm up to me. Although they still don't approach me. I will practice getting to know them because they have such a mysterious, inquisitive vibe about them.

Today I will walk around for a few hours exploring the various villages, shops and people. I have to be wary of some areas though, as they are not safe to even walk around in the day. And since I am dying to get around and take pictures, I have to be even more careful since I won't be paying as much attention. I can barely walk and talk at the same time, let alone take pictures and watch where I am wandering too AND have a sense of direction. ha ha - say it isn't so.


One love, Heidi