Getting around

In Bagamoyo, there are a many bicycles and motorcycles, few cars and Bijaji’s(like a took-took), and primarily a lot of foot traffic, all sharing the same small two-way, dirt roads. Most people walk to get every where so I have been walking far and wide to get every where. It can wear you out, especially when it is 85 degrees and 200% humidity. I live about 20 minutes from downtown Baga, so I find myself walking quite a bit. I know, I know it is the healthy alternative, but after two weeks of walking I decided to get my nerve up to hop on the back of a moto bike. You see people cruising on them everywhere with a man or woman sitting side-saddle style and at times riding normal style. Some times you see a driver and two passengers on one moto and on bikes too.

The other day I whistled one down. Well I tried to whistle and ended up spitting all over myself. Where was Sutton when I needed him. He must have seen my lips puckering up because he quickly turned around. I had a skirt on so I sat for a quick second trying to decide if I should sit like normal or ride like a girl, no a lady. I decided to ride like Heidi. I put my skirt between my legs and saddled-up. I don’t know why it took me so long grab a ride because it is so much quicker and only cost 1000 tsh, about .80 . I still enjoy walking but if I go to the market or just don’t feel like walking I hitch a ride. 

Bijaji’s are awesome too, especially when you are carrying a lot of stuff or if you are with another person. They cost 1000tsh-1500 depending. I have my Bijaji, taxi, bike and moto guys that I can call any time. I tip really well, an extra  500-1000 TSH and they love it. Most people don’t tip here. After working in the restaurant/bar business, you learn how wonderful it is to get great tips, and how much better service you give when you get them. 

It is wise to create a little, no a lot of loyalty around baga town!!!

The art of washing on, washing off and wringing out

Ahh the ritual of hand-washing. Last night I was talking to Sutton on the phone and he said, “honey, how am I going to do my laundry?” I said, “baby you have to hand-wash it.” And he paused and said, “I guess I won’t be doing too much laundry.” I laughed. We will see about that!

I have to admit I actually quite like getting up in the morning and doing my laundry. You need to set aside around and hour and a half, depending on your load size and any size here is a large load in terms of hand washing.  (smile) I absolutely appreciate the men and women who do their own laundry by hand. It really is “work.’ I am starting to get my technique down, that is for sure. I have watched a few of the girls and damn, they have it down to a science from the washing to the wringing. I have hand washed on camping trips and at Burning Man so I thought, ‘it’ll be a piece of cake.’ Cake, how I would love a delicious, big piece of chocolate cake with rich-n-creamy, cream cheese frosting. Mmmmmmm. Ok, back to laundry. 

I bought a big washing bowl, about 2 1/2 feet, some powder soap, because my liquid Woolite exploded in my luggage - what a pain in my ass that was - and some bleach.  The washing is the easy part, but then you have to wring out each piece really well, and set it in a separate bucket so you only have to fill the wash bowl one more time, in order to save time and save water. Once you wring it out you rinse it in fresh water and then your rinse it out again and wring it out again. Oh, wait; let’s go back to the washing part. I take back that this is easy. Now I understand the use of a washboard, which I never understood. I used to think about how much that must wear out your clothing and how difficult it appeared to be. I learned fast because when you have sort of dirt you need to scrub it out because a little swirl-around in the water isn’t going to cut it, and, you need a surface to scrub on

Wash on wash off. You have to let your clothing soak, and scrub each piece together to lather it up and get the dirt out. If the dirt isn’t coming out then you have to use a brush to brush it out. I saw the girls doing this, and caught on REAL fast. At first I thought, ‘that is going to ruin my clothing,’ and then I realized it is the quick solution to getting CLEAN clothing. I use the side of my bucket or put it on my own washboard, the log, just near the tree. I love such modern conveniences. I really do!

Rinsing off and wringing out. This is work and I have learned a great technique. Now I can wring out a pair of jeans in no time. Jeans and towels suck because they are so heavy. By the time I am done, I feel a heat stroke coming on. No, I am only kidding…

Hanging to dry. This is my favorite part because I feel like I’m running a 10K, and I am nearing the finish line. I also like the idea of the sun and fresh breeze drying my clothing. Unless, of course, it rains ½ hour after you have spent the past 1 1/2 hours washing/wringing. Things could be worse, right? !

We all share a clothing line that goes in between my and Rosemary’s house. It is a cord that crudely ties from the cement fence behind my house to the front porch area, and attaches to the top of the shed in front of my house. There is a stick/pole in the middle for added support. Sometimes Ester and the boys hang their clothing on  all the tall bushes that separate both yards if the clothing line is maxed-out. Talk about “ber-ner-ner-ner, ber-ner-ner-ner-ner ner-ner – the Samford and Son song comes to my mind, and makes me laugh. I choose not to air my laundry this way.

I really do enjoy the hand-washing ritual, and I have to say I bet my laundry hasn’t ever been this clean. 

A beggar can’t be a chooser

Even if it is a d-o-g.

You look into their eyes and it times I see fear, at others I see pain and the longing for unconditional love. I can go from feeling annoyed to feeling such sorrow for many of the dogs of Bagamoyo.  And kitties too.

You know how in the states people say,  ‘he/she treats him/her like a dog? Well the dogs really are treated like dogs here and it isn’t in a good way. Many times you don’t notice the dogs because they are everywhere, roaming about from year to yard, house to house, in search of food, and I imagine a loving hand that will pet them and not hit them.

I get the sense the dogs are not treated like pets, in most cases, now I am speaking in general terms and from what I have seen on a daily basis but they are treated with angst and frustration. It is sad because I absolutely LOVE dogs, and most pets, but these dogs I don’t care to pet too much, because one, they run and cringe at you, which gives me the inclination that they are abused and fearful to be hit, and two because they are so mangy, dirty, burned,  flea-ridden and who knows what else. They could have rabies so you have to take head when reaching out your hand – it runs the gamut.

There is this one female dog that looks as though she is about 2 months out from having had puppies. I could tell because her little ta tas look as though they had been sucked on by little babies.  I am a sucker for puppies. She kept coming into my yard, by the trash and every once in a while would shyly walk on by, looking at me with hesitancy, and at times she would approach me. I thought twice about petting her because I wanted to send her some love. As she got closer I noticed that her left ear looked as though it had been slashed at the base with a knife, and it looked as though each ear had been burned with oil or something because they had black splotches on them. It made me disgusted. As I went out to put my hand out to her, my neighbor Ester, who I like less and less every day, yelled at the dog, reached down to the ground to pick up a rather large chunk of cement to throw at her. I raised my voice and said, ‘NO, don’t’, and I shook my finger at her. She dropped the rock and gave me a smirking grin that I wanted to slap off her face.
I know people here are conditioned to treat the begging dogs like rats, and they get tired of them, but not in my yard or any where near me. I understand that they are pests and beggars, like our pigeons, but that is not excuse to continue the vicious cycle of abusive behavior. 

Now one thing is for certain, all the dogs look the same. There aren’t many breeds here, and I would assumer because they keep inner breading, and because in order to buy a ‘clean,’ unique type of dog, it would be quite pricey.

Today I was sweeping my front porch, and she came up and sat right in front of my porch. I said ‘hi’ and she finally let me pet her, I did, immediately wash my hands after, I know, I know but you just don’t know what these d-o-g-s might be carrying around. I noticed her ear was healing and I wanted to go in and grab some Vitamin E oil, and decided against it. I really didn’t want to touch her – it looked gross. Instead I pet her and rubbed her muzzy (muzzle). She tried to come up on my porch and said, “no. I didn’t want to start a habit. Talk about starting habits. I decided I wanted to feed her some scraps so I went in to the kitchen and brought out some rice, beans and steak,  I had made the night before. Just a little. I put it down, and she ate it up. Well she ate everything but the beans. I said to her, “beggars can’t be choosers.” She just looked at me with sweet little eyes that said, ‘that was delicious and I want more, please.’ 

Ok, so I am a push-over. I went in and got some steamed milk I had just made for coffee and poured it in a bowl that Ester had left outside. I told her to sit down, and she did and I put it down in front of her. She, of course, loved it and lapped it up. I went into my house to clean up a bit, and I looked over to my front door where she was sitting, patiently. I told her to go sit off the porch. Mind you, I am sure she doesn’t get a lick of English, so I said it in Swahili. She went out and lay down off to the side of my house.

Right now, as I am writing this story, she is on my porch peering around my open, front door. Again I tell her she needs to go off and she does. I also told her to keep it on the “DL.” (down-low)

Maybe I’m feeding into this vicious cycle, as well.

On this grey day

I woke up to a grey, smoke-filled day,  missing home a bit. The weather looks as though it might rain. As my grandma Cricket used to say, “shit or get off the pot..” I would always laugh, and I am smiling as I write this. She also used to say, ‘you’d loose your head if it wasn’t tacked on.‘ I laugh now in reflecting back, but most of the time it used to make me mad. SO I’m a multi, multi-tasker.

My neighbor, Emanuel, sure sounds African doesn’t it, who lives in the 8 x 8 room under the top level of the water tank with Saiid, has moved all of the trash and yard mulch out near the side of the road, and has set it aflame.  It smells so fresh and wonderful! Ha! Yes, this is how we rid of our garbage. We either bury or burn it.

The day after I moved in I asked Ester where I could put my garbage and compost and she pointed to the big pi full of plastic, metal, trash, cement blocks and an occasional pecking hen, and said that I should throw it there. I was a little set aback, even though I had seen the trash pile, the day before. I didn’t know at the time that once it got full you would burn it. This pile is about 12 feet from my front door near a lovely palm tree that must just love this weekly occurrence of cleansed, oxygenated smoke.

My yard it full of these gorgeous, stunning trees that breathe with energy and vitality. I am not sure the English name but in Swahili they are called Mkungu. I also have two hugo cocunut trees and quite a few baby palms. The palms had just been planted when the other day some cows barged in while on their way out to graze, and munched them all up in about 3 minutes flat. I couldn’t believe it. I watched from my bedroom window as the boy lost control of about 5 cows and a few goats and they came right into our yard and straight to the newly planted palms and ate them all up. I was so pissed off. Fat cows! I wanted to say something but I didn’t know what to say in Swahili. Saiid ran out and started, I assume, cursing in Swahili. It wasn’t the boys fault, actually, because the cows had run ahead of the pack and found heir way through our gate, which really isn’t a gate because there is no closer – just cement walls.  Welcome one, welcome all.

Right under one of the beautiful trees is where we do our laundry.  It is about 20 feet from my house. The first day I ventured out to do some hand washing, my morning workout - no joke- and I thought about how this lovely tree gets to absorb all of this grey water from our bleach, soap-ridden laundry. I felt horrible knowing I am contributing to our Earths suffering; yet there is nothing I can do. The water spout is right there, next to a few cement blocks and a log that you can sit on while scrubbin’, rinsin’ and washin’ away.  

Once again, contributing to another vicious cycle(s).  

Stop - Thief

I had heard through CCS during my last stay in Bagamoyo that you shouldn’t walk alone at night on certain roads, especially by the beach, or anywhere near darkly lit streets.  And, if you did , even if you were a block away from the CCS compound, that you should call a taxi, more so if it was around 11:00 at night, which is the curfew and if the police see you wandering around you might get picked up and or arrested. It really is for safety and for keeping the riff raff off the streets.

 I didn’t pay too much head to it because I didn’t go out a lot at night when I was volunteering, mind you we had a silly curfew of 10:00, and if you read my last blog you know that I broke it numerous times. If I did go out I was with local friends and or other volunteers.  When I  was talking to Mama C(Clementina) and Charles they said the main road, which I lived off of, was quite safe at night except after 11:00 and later.  But any time after 11:00 you should have an escort, and preferably not a muzungu, unless it is a man or a group of people.

So I felt safe knowing that. I think it was the third night I was here and I was going to meet a friend of mine who wasn’t too far away at a local bar. It was about 7:30 and had just gotten dark as I walked out of my home.  I remembered the main route because I had been walking on it for a few days. I felt pretty safe because there were a few people out on the streets ahead of and behind me. Well, it is true, safety does come in numbers. I was walking down the main road and there was a switch off and, yes, of course with my sense of direction, which is far from accurate, I took the wrong road, but only for about 30 seconds until I realized it was the wrong direction

So I quickly, turned around and walked over to the other road. I kid you not, no more than 10 second I heard some walking behind me and I could see the shadow. Well it had been raining that day so I kept jumping over and around puddles of water and I noticed that every time I jumped and moved around so did the shadow behind me. I actually started to feel a tiny bit scared. Oh and I forgot to mention that I was now walking on the part of the street where the friggin lights were out.

So I moved around one more puddle and so did the “shadow,” and I thought to myself I hope the hell that it is someone walking close to me, and as soon as I thought that the steps behind me quickened and I thought  ‘F*$@’ I am going to just turn around and see right now. My heart was beating like mad and as soon as I got turned around a guy came running up to me, from about 5 feet away, and grabbed may purse. Dumb move on my part. HUGE note to self. Don’t ever walk alone at night  and don’t walk alone at night with a purse. I actually walked out the door without it, but went back for it because I was carrying too much stuff: mosquito spray, 15,ooo tsh, my phone and baby wipes, oh yah and the keys to my room. J. 
All which would not fit in my jeans.

He was about my height and I could tell a dirty, scumbag beach rat. I quickly turned into fight, not flight mode. I grabbed my bag and held on for life and as he pulled I yanked back with all my might yelling NO, NO and NOOO. As we were pulling back and forth my phone flew out, thank gawd, and there was a point within the 20 seconds of struggle, that I was going to haul back and kick him right in the stomach, but I decided, within seconds that it wasn’t a good idea because I didn’t know if he had a weapon or would get pissed off and hurt me. I started screaming at the top of my lungs, not so much out of fear, or pain, but because I wanted people to come running and catch this piece of dirt. I yanked so hard; screaming that he either cut my purse string or it snapped and he took off running while I was screaming, and shaking. I picked up my phone and thought to myself, OMG I have just been robbed, and could have been injured or killed and, for a brief moment I almost cried but for some reason I didn’t. I quickly collected my whit and called Charles and told him what had just happened. I told me to wait and he would come pick me up on his motorcycle and go to the police. I hung up and walked, no I walk-ran and burned rubber to the main road where there was light and a few people. A girl and guy behind me were yelling ‘dada, dada (sister), are you ok?’ and I yelled back ‘yes I am ok. ‘ ‘Are you hurt,’ they asked, and I said ‘no.’ When I got to the main road I was breathing so hard that I had to stop and catch my breath. Charles showed up about 5 minutes later, very concerned and feeling horrible that I actually got robbed right on the main road so close to home. He thought we should go to the police station, but then decided against it because there were no witnesses and would be a waste of time. He asked me to take him back to the spot where it happened and he said: ‘oh yes Heidi, the beach is right over there. I didn’t realize it because I hadn’t walked down that road or even been to the beach yet. Hellllooo. He said that the guy was probably waiting for someone to walk by, right in that dark spot on the road, and it just so happened to be ME.

He took me to meet my friend Nassa and told me that I should tell him to spread the word so that people will be on the look out because word travels fast in regard to almost anything, and especially lame ass thieves, and the guy could possibly get spotted and caught. I was lucky I didn’t have any real valuables on me and that I got my phone back.

I took a taxi home and ever since then I don’t walk alone at night ANYMORE. EVER. My friends either walk me home or I take a moto or taxi no mater where I am or how close to home I am. I was in the wrong place at the right time or maybe in the right place at the right time because it could have been far worse if it happened any other time.

After that ‘incident’ I was a little worried about living alone and wanted to make sure wherever I lived that it was a. either in a gated compound or b. had a night guard.  The house I was interested in renting was across the road from Charles, where I was living at the time. Block P is one of the safest areas in town because it is near the police station, government officials and other muzungus' homes. I asked Charles if he really thought the area was safe, and even more so, safe to live alone as a solo white female. He said yes, as long as it was protected in some way.

That next day Charles came with me to look over the house and yard, and he thought it would be a great place to live, ONLY if I had either a metal grilled door or a masai to watch over me. I decided to get the Masai because the landlord wouldn’t let me do anything to the door or entryway. Done I rented the house that day.

Sutton honey, my dear friends and family, I just couldn’t tell you because I KNEW you would all worry, like mad about me so I decided against it.  I almost told Sutton about 3 times but I didn’t want to worry him and or ruin his day, or night, week, … I really am safe and careful now. It happened for a reason: and good thing it happened sooner than later to help wise me. Well it wasn’t a good thing but ya’ll know what I mean.

The first night in my African home

Charles called his best friend and we moved all of my furniture and suitcases over once it got dark  to make sure the wrong people didn’t see someone moving into a new house, and that this someone was a muzungu. I was a little nervous about that.

I spent the next 2 hours cleaning the shit out of my new house.  I almost exfixiated myself because I wanted to make sure any and all dirt/germs were mine. Not only was I smelling bleach and ammonia, but I had also sprayed mosquito spray in my house to kill off any and all of the buggers. Now, when you spray this toxic substance you have to keep all of your windows closed for about an hour. What a retard, I actually stayed in the house continuing to clean because I could NOT go to sleep unless the entire place was spotless.  It wasn’t left too clean – not HEIDI clean.

I didn’t want anyone to see me go outside, and I didn’t know anyone yet, so I stayed inside.  What a dumb arse, for sure.   After about an hour I started wheezing a bit. Finally I couldn’t take it anymore so I went outside and sat down taking big ‘ deep breaths. After a few hours I decided I would read and go to bed. I didn’t have my Masai yet, so I was scared to fall asleep. As I lay in bed, I felt like I was having asmah ummm because I was. I did feel ok opening all my windows so that helped.

I didn’t sleep that well because every little noise freaked me out, and when I woke up to the sun shining in my room, I sighed with relief. I called Charles and he said the Masai would come to my house this evening before it got dark. Another sigh of relief. This made me feel much more at ease

Hunting and gathering and movin’ in’

Since I was moving into a house and I didn’t have any furniture I was ready to start searching for furniture and kitchen appliances. When I told Charles about the fact that I was moving and asked him if he new where I could get certain items he said “I have already thought about it and you can borrow all the furniture in your room, the little refrigerator, the small couch in our living room, a wicker chair for you porch, and a living room table. And maybe we can work out a little price that you feel fair about. You give me a $ amount and I will let you decide what is fair. I felt so grateful because he just saved me a lot of time and money. I told him I would let him know the next day.

I had actually asked Ester if I could use her bed frame, and she said yes, so I had a bed and then Charles let me take the mattress I was using too. She also left me a tiny table and shoe rack ;)

I have been blessed with meeting people who want to help and share to make sure I am provided for and content with my living in Baga. I thought about how much to offer him and I put a price to each item and came up with 200,000TSH, about 175-180 USD’s. When I told him he smiled, laughed and said how about 200 USD’s and I said absolutely. I could have easily spent 600USD buying everything, at least.

On the 5^th day I need to gather some of the last items, kitchen supplies, dishes, silverware, cooking pans and a cook stove. Charles picked me up on his moto and took me to his friends shop where I bought everything I would need for a few months. We bartered over the final price and got him down about 10%. I walked out of there spending about  145,000 tsh(130.00USD).  Once we  had everything all set, we calleda taxi to take me to my new home.

Charles has been an angle, to say the least. Wonderful man and his wife Doreen is just as adorable.