Looking for my little African house

Once again, I have manifested a wonderful little house that is everything I had hoped for before I came to Africa.  I had faith that I would find exactly what I wanted. My friend Nassa was awesome and had a few places for me to look  at before I even got here. I didn’t even have to ask him  a few days after I got into Bagamoyo he told me. I was stoked because I had no idea where to start.

The first place he took me too was a little shabby, yet in a pretty safe part of town. There were about 6 little houses, 2 adjoined together. I walked up and a girl came out of her house and just stared, she didn’t smile or greet me by saying, mambo vp, dada or Habari za mchana, (hello how are you or hello, how are you finding this afternoon?) She just stared. I thought, yah not sure about this vibe, at all.  I smiled back and her lip curled into a tiresome, lazy smile, and then she went inside.  Hmm I didn’t feel so welcome here. His friend, Rashidy came to meet us and took me to see the place that was for rent. We walked up to this nice, little white house, that looked like it had a good two days to be finished . I asked, “how do we get in to see it?” Rashidy said  “I am going to call the owner.” These Africans, ‘oh come and see the house and let us know what you think…’ and they hadn’t even called the landlord or had a key.  He said come and see my house and wait for the guy to come and let us in. He told me that his house was like the house I was going to see. 

We sat down and waited, and waited. All of a sudden I heard this horrible, loud, hip-hop music blaring from one house, and loud African pop coming from another house. I looked at Nassa and said, “dude what is the age of the people that live here?” Please ask Rashidy if they play this loud music all day and night because there is no way in hell I will deal with this. Right then I new I wanted to leave. Not to mention we had been waiting an hour for the guy that he couldn’t get a hold of.

As we were walking back to the house I was staying I saw a friend of mine, a volunteer from CCS riding his bike, and he stopped and asked what we were doing and then told me he had just taken a look at this lovely little house because he was thinking about staying, but wasn’t sure. He gave us the directions, I looked at Nassa and he said “I know that girl so let me give her a call.”  He made a few calls to his friend and then he said “let’s go meet with her in town and she will show us the house.” I thought ‘go in town, we just came from town and it takes 20 minutes to walk in the hot sun and we had already been walking around for 2 hours. And we are right at the house.’ I know, I know, walking is great, but not when you feel like your entire body is glistening with sweat. J  I was anxious to find a house so I agreed. 

The neighborhood roosters and hens

Rooster say whaaat?

I woke up really early today, 6:30 early. A tad bit on the early side for me, although it feels reinvigorating to get up and welcome the beautiful sun rising.

Even though I had my earplugs in, yes I know silly because is quite quiet here, all except for the early morning rooster calls.  Every morning you can hear the rooster(s)! cock-a-doodle-doin’. Today it sounded like they cockadoodled, “heidi.” Just kidding.

Today they were extra cock-a-doodle doin’ and I woke up at 6:30. It is as common as moto bikes and cars on the road to see chickens crossing the roads, roaming the streets, back alley ways, front and back yards and you can always find them in my and my neighbors yards cruising about looking for food. Yesterday I was doing my laundry and I looked over to see a couple chickens and chicks squatting near on the trash pile, just chilling out. There used to be a time when I thought little chickies were adorable, but when you see these ones everyday and see what they eat – um yah, not so cute.

Last week I went to go buy a live chicken, -YES, live chicken - a story/adventure that I will tell you about later. When I stepped up the cage, not counter, they asked me if I wanted a bush chicken or a town chicken. I must have looked like a dear in the headlights, although like back home “free-range came into my head, and I said ‘bush.’ Wise choice. I have seen what goes in these Chickens and I know what stays in their bodies, and I have seen what they all do when they hit the town.

Hellll –NO we won’t go.

Today I went Jogging on the beach

I have been spending my mornings running on the beach as it is only about a 5 minute walk from my house, which I am thankful for almost everyday. I try to get up and hit the beach by about 7:30-8:00 because it gets pretty hot shortly there after.

I walk down the road a ways and take a trail that winds down overlooking the beautiful ocean. It is usually lo-tide which is an interesting site to see. Nzuri sana – quite beautiful and refreshing way to start my day. I stay on alert until I get on to the beach because there are a lot of bushes and curves and I do have to remember to keep safe. I don’t usually walk back up the hill though, one because I am worn out and two because I can’t see so well.

It is interesting scenery all along the beach. There are some old ruins left to watch stand along the beach and some times I see a man or boy sheepishly sauntering out, waking up to their day.  Yesterday I was running and I noticed someone out of the corner of my eye, over at one of the ruins that hugs the eroding hillside and sprawls out onto the beach, and I laughed because there was a naked man, standing just outside one of the walls, slipping on a pair of pants. I kept strolling right along.

The other day I was jogging and as I hit my finish line I decided to walk further down the beach and collect shells along the way. It was so nice, the sun was starting to beat all down the right side of my body and I decided it was getting to hot so I headed back. I hesitated as I looked up and down he trail to make sure I was all alone and no one had followed me, ok so I am a little more cautious, than some people considering. I decide to walk up when I noticed some rustling in the bushes moving my way, so my gut said turn around and walk down to the hotel and cross over.  I wasn’t sure if it was a chicken, because the rustle around everywhere, a dog, or even a person, and the thought came into my mind,  ‘OMG what if it’s a lion,’ and I turned right around and walked even faster. The funny thing – no lions will ever be at the beach.  I didn’t wait around long enough to see. I’m sure it was a dog, and I was the chicken.

The beach really is safe during the day because there are a lot of locals and other muzungus running and walking around going here and going there.

I haven’t ever lived so close to the beach and I LOVE it.

Ra rafiki yangu, Mama C – Clementina

Mama C was our CCS “MAMA,” she basically helps run the organization and takes care of all the services, volunteer placement partners and the volunteers. We became friends toward the end of my stay, before I went off to safari. I like her vibe the moment I met her, although there were times when I couldn’t figure her out. I think it was a cultural thing and it takes time for some African women to warm up to you, and open their hearts, freely.

We sat down one day, for a few hours while our other friend Flora braided my hair for 6 hours, and talked about our careers and dreams. She has a tailoring business
in downtown Baga where locals go to have their shirts and pants made, and she also makes school uniforms for the community. She and I have been discussion creative ways to expand upon and grow her business by reaching our to the tourist market. I am going to give her new ideas for clothing samples, primarily for women: purse, clutch, skirts and cloth belt designs.  She mentioned she had an extra space in the back of her tailoring store and said she asked me if I thought setting up a massage area would be attractive and I immediately said YES. Great idea and then I told her she should have a girl come in and do mani’s and pedi’s too and serve tea, have magazines to read and offer coffee out front and inside, as well. She loves this idea and is in the process of building out the space.  I told her I would help her design it and his made her shine with smiles. Although I am sure it will be a pole, pole (SLOW) process since she is slammed with volunteers and also her tailoring business.

I gave her a bit of advice that I constantly try to remind myself, focus on one idea at a time so you can put the best of your energy and efforts forward. Otherwise your many ideas become less strong -watered down. She liked that.

Her other idea, which she would love for me to partner on in some way, is to create a cultural home stay compound where women and men, like myself, who want to come to visit Bagamoyo to live and immerse yourself in culture be it through painting, learning batiking, working in the hospitals and or schools, going on safari, basically anything you want your experience to be you can create on your own time. It won’t be a volunteer program but pure cultural immersion at your own leisure.

It is a fantastic business idea because you can visit and have a SAFE place to live with your own little cottage that would have a fully equipped kitchen, bedroom and bath and a also a communal kitchen for the entire group of cottages.  If you don’t want to cook for yourself you don’t have to.  I think it is a wonderful concept so her and I are going to get together, flush it out and, first I am going to help her write the business plan, to the best of my abilities. She has the land she just needs a solid plan, start building it out and they will come…

Nassa Pumé

Nassa is such a wonderful friend of mine that I met when I volunteered the first time in Bagamoyo. I met him at the internet café and instantly new we would be friends. We share the same vibe and he is a soul brother for sure. Beautiful soul full of love and light and I am grateful for our friendship. We spend a lot of time sitting around and listening to music, one of my all time favorite things to do, and talking life.

He was born in Dar Esalaam where his mother was the 2^nd or 3^rd wife to his father who was Muslim, and has since “expired,” as they call it the same year my father also passed away. He was raised by his mother and saw his father a few times a year when he would either go visit him in London or his father would come to Tanzania. Although Nassa was raised Muslin he decided at the age of around 10 that he didn’t vibe and or connect with the religion and practice. He is a rasta at heart and you can tell he was raised by a wonderful, loving mother. He is a respectful guy that has a heart of gold and spirit of the earth and universe. We actually share the same birthdays too which is rare because I have only met maybe one other person with the same b-day as me. Pisces/Aries cuspers rock!!

He is a painter, artist and total hustler. I love it. He can find whatever you need most of the time, whenever you need it and he expects nothing but love and respect back. He spent his life trying to make ends meet which is why he is a true soldier, in my mind. He has studied off and on to be a safari guide and a painter, although when the money runs out, which id does in many cases with students who are supporting themselves, they have to discontinue their studies. It is such a pure shame and incredibly unfortunate and I have seen this many times with the locals that I meet.

Nassa has been an angle and wonderful friend who has been a strong support, he has helped introduce me to people, he found my house, he is my translator and English teacher and most of all, rasta brother.

Ra rafiki yang, Charles and UKUN - the HIV/AIDS organization he mans

My new friend Charles is such a bubbly, happy man with wonderful energy. He was a joy to live with and to get to know. We would sit around and have discussions about life in America and Africa, at great lengths, and I am grateful for his company. He runs one of the largest AIDS organizations in Bagamoyo, called UKUN. 

UKUN is a non-governmental, non-political and non-profit making organization and its mission is to contribute to the prevention and mitigation of the HIV/AIDS pandemic through sensitization and the provision of comprehensive home-based care services and support to People Living with HIV/AIDS (PLHA) and Orphans and Most Vulnerable Children (OVC).

It is a wonderful organization that truly supports the community, even at times when the primary, umbrella donor hasn’t released the promised funds for what can be up to 5 months. Such political BS!!! That is an entirely other topic of discussion: The corruption in Tanzania and most of Africa. UKUN then has to make do with whatever resources they can find. Sometimes the funds happen to come right out o Charles’s pocket, which I find very unfortunate. Other times people affected and or exposed don’t get to receive medicine, and or adequate care. We have had many discussions on the AIDS epidemic issues(s), and I’ve learned such a great deal about the problems that these poverty stricken communities, and families have to endure when taken by, and or exposed to HIV/AIDS.

One of the main problems is if a family member is taken by HIV/AIDS then the, obviously, the entire family is affected. Not only is the medicine incredibly expensive, but it will make you very sick and weak, and without food and proper care, the individual and all who are exposed, suffer.  I know I am not an expert on this issue. I am just sharing what I have been learning.

For example if a mother contracts the virus then she is too sick and weak to work, let alone make meals for herself and her family. In most cases, the family is already living in poverty, so they can’t afford to put a solid meal on the table. With little to eat, the mother lacks the nutrition and energy necessary to sustain her work, with no work there is no money, no money, no food for children, and no uniforms so they can go to school. Children must have a uniform to attend school. No uniform, NO school. NO education. NO future job, and the cycle continues. 

If mother unfortunately dies, then who is left to take care of the family and the children? Therefore, the family unit and entire community suffer. This is a HUGE, common problem, and as a result there are many orphanages and homeless individuals. Many times a grandmother, who many times lives with the family, or older sibling cannot support the family. In turn, the children have to spend a few days, if not all their time, at an orphanage where they can get food and shelter. This is where the term “vulnerable” children comes from.  It breaks my heart.

It is my plan to start working with Charles a day or two a week, wherever he needs my help. He has other volunteers from CCS, yet I can probably help in the areas where they are not contributing. 

Re-entry - Back in Bagamoyo

‘Hakuna matata’ is what most people greeted me with upon my arrival back to Baga. ‘Our home is your home, and we welcome you to our family.’

Finally my first blog posting which is a little surprising since I have been here for almost a month on Saturday. Gawd I can’t believe I have been here a month already.

I think I’ve spent quite a bit of time adjusting to living in a new culture, primarily with all Africans. Imagine that – I am in Tanzania - solo, without the comfort of living with and being surrounded by other muzungus everyday, which was how it was while I was living and working with CCS back in February. Although, I have remained friends with a few people from Baga who have been wonderfully supportive, and who have taken me into their lives, homes and families, be it their family or extended family, their friends.

I spent my first week living with a friend of a friend, Charles who was introduced to me by Clementine, aka Mama C, and it is her good friend, and his lovely wife Doreen, that I rented a room from for the first week of my stay here.  Mama C wanted to make sure that I was safe, above and beyond anything and because I stressed to her, about 5 times, that I wanted to stay somewhere SAFE and SECURE since I have all my computer stuff and camera equip etc AND hello for my own safety, as well.  I mentioned staying at a hotel but she insisted I stay with Charles, as she trusted him implicitly and because she didn’t find it necessary to spend the extra money. I felt much better doing this anyway.

I stayed in a “modest” room with just enough to get me by until I found my own house. It came with a bed and mosquito net, tv, which I had them take out, a night stand and little stable and mirror.  I immediately felt at home – well as much as I could feel at home. I don’t particularly care to live with other people in general. I love my own privacy and space A LOT, and I have been living by myself for the past 4 years, yet I found this to be a no-brainer exception, and it was short-term. 

Safe is as safe does. There were bars on all the windows, mind you ALL the houses have some sort of simply designed, ornate steel windows with screens on the windows to keep out the INCREDIBLEY irritating mosquitoes, and the unwanted visitors, and what we like to call THIEVES.  Although there were a few other unwanted visitors that just FEAK me out and I can’t even kill them unless I have a huge towel or big-arse boot – yes, cockroaches. They kill me and I really do despise them. If you could see my face now I have the biggest ‘gross-me-out face that I can make. Thank gawd for my mosquito net.

One night I got up in the dark to go to the bathroom, and something fell on my shoulder and I jumped up and down, swinging my arms at the darkness and silently screaming. I turned on the light and I found a sweet little gecko-like lizard on my floor. I immediately felt horrible thinking I had hurt the little thing because I flung it off of me as though I was flinging off a 5-pound cockroach off of my back.

I do believe I felt a little culture shock. The first two weeks I wasn’t sure if I was coming or going.  I was meeting new people, learning my way around and spending most of my time with local friends who were, showing me the ropes, so to speak. It was somewhat of an emotional breeze at times and other times an emotional windstorm, tearing through my heart and soul. It’s all-good though. That is how we tend to grow and break on through to the MANY other sides, right?

It has been a wonderful experience thus far because I am learning the culture and language rather fast, although not fast enough for me,  since I don’t really have too many muzungu friends,  and because I spend all of my time with my African friends and every day acquaintances.

Besides if I want to learn the culture, you have to live, breath and absorb the culture as best you can.